15 G0602 Turning Metric Threads

I learned how to thread by watching Tubalcain's Youtube channel (/user/mrpete222/videos?query=threading), and with some help from John Grimsmo (/user/JohnGrimsmo). Even though I had plenty of help, it still took me FOREVER to get a single usable thread.... Then I got another :)

Here is the Shars tool holder:

Here are the Shars inserts I use:

Here are the two brazed carbide tools:

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Автор Mike Koz ( назад)
how do you deal with backlash on the lead screw? this has been most
frustrating aspect of threading for me.

Автор Andrew Wilson ( назад)
Why you using tungsten carbide tools? There no need for mild steel and a
well ground HSS tool bit will give great results on mild steel. You need a
bit more rake on your tip for mild steel, the carbides have a shallow rake
for cutting harder materials. It is quite a common misconception that the
hardest cutting tool gives the best results. Since you not running anywhere
near the limit of HSS never mind TCT you should give it a go. I have cut
loads of threads in all sorts of steels with a HSS bit including ACME,
square and buttress as well as all the normal metric,unc,unf by and
whitworth and not felt like I needed to switch to TCT!.

Автор Timothy Schmidt ( назад)
Thank you so very much; you saved me a ton of time. Before trying a 20 ton
press some might want to try tapping them out with a socket and hammer;
mine came right out with a little force and I was able to just push them
back in.

Автор Ellen Malmin ( назад)
Close to 90deg.

Автор Ellen Malmin ( назад)
Doing exactly that then it's working ok.
The smal chiped off material that is pressent in your operation is a sign
that something is wrong.
The cutting Edge angle is too class to 90deg.

Автор Ellen Malmin ( назад)
Hi russtuff - a way to make a nicer and better looking thread, is to use HS
cutting steel, and make a smaller cutting angle at the flank where the
thread cutting tool is actually suppose to cut.
Noe way to see that it's not quite ok with your cuttin is to look at the
chiped of material.
That is suppose to be long spiralling material. If it's during 

Автор Joe Drouin ( назад)
Congrats of finally getting a successful thread ! Your early failures look
like many that occupied my junk bin ! Regarding cutting metric threads with
an inch lead screw, especially up to a shoulder, check out the oxtoolco
channel ..... specifically -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXt4TWa382Q
Also a good read explaining the technique -->
Good luck, look forward to more videos !

Автор russtuff ( назад)
James I can't reply to your question for some reason. No I've never tried
drill rod, but I bet it works really well.

Автор James Armstrong-Jones ( назад)
Evil mild steel... NOW i know!!!. thanks for that. have you tried drill rod

Автор Duc Nguyen ( назад)
chán lắm

Автор Will C ( назад)
This may not be advisable on your own personal lathe but at school when
dimensions don't permit a minor diameter "relief" or "runoff" cut ill
thread as close to the shoulder as I'm comfortable hit the foot brake and
simultaneously back out the cross slide. Hitting the brake probably
stresses the lathe in one way or another but you sure do get nice threads
haha. I've found that .003 cuts are good for roughing, an when your down to
the last .005-.010, .001 or less gives a great finish. Cool video and yes
mild steel sucks

Автор Stantonleman (1304 года назад)
Good to see you got carbide to work. I know that was not easy. Carbide is
brittle, provides a rough surface finish at low speed, and requires higher
tip loads. Those reasons are why I switched to HSS tooling (i.e. I gave up
on carbide). I found using HSS for thread cutting with lard oil (available
at McMaster-Carr, MSC, etc.) helps considerably with mild (1018) steel. I
use a hand crank to drive the spindle when threading. Some HSS tooling I
ground but A.R.Warner sells HSS insert tooling (also sold through little
machine shop).

Автор Michael Nooij ( назад)
29.5 degrees is not enough for cutting on 1 side, 27 degrees gives best

Автор slapfrog ( назад)
Try using threading oil, I thread rigid metal conduit at work and there is
a night and day difference between the quality of the threads when you use
motor oil compared to threading oil. You can pick up threading oil at Home
Depot or Lowes in the plumbing section. Apply a light coat each pass and
you can thread mild steel very nice. Hope this helps.

Автор Darko Bulatovic ( назад)
First to thank you for all this videos I got same machines as you do (g0602
and g0704) and your videos help a lot.
So I have been researching inserts and as you may already know every
manufacturer marks them in their own way so its hard to know what kind of
material they are meant to cut. Diferent iserts are made with different
properties. Some are meant for harder and some for softer metals. From
China there is C2-C6 mark that is used to define hardness of insert carbide
but with name brand ones its hard to figure out but visually. At end maybe
grade of tool may not be best for softer steel.

Автор SeditiousMonkeyArt ( назад)
The biggest issue you are having with your thread cutting is the lathe
itself, and has nothing to do with it being a metric thread, mild steel or
hand rolling the chuck. These small lathes simply lack the rigidity needed
for thread cutting, especially the smaller threads. The flexing is a big
factor to poor thread quality and tool breakage. This applies to parting
also. This is also an issue for carbide or insert tools. You simply cant
cut at the correct cutting speed on the small lathe. I agree with the
others, use HHS and you will get a better finish.
Others have also pointed out the depth of cut you were taking was way to
much for the mini-lathe, ergo point 1. You have addressed this in part by
reducing your cut and by positioning your compound to 29.5 degrees.
Might I also suggest that for such small threads use a die rather than
cutting it, much faster.
I hope you are having more success these days with your thread cutting.

Автор makun16 ( назад)
The reason for turning the compound in at 29.5 degrees is so that you on
cut one side of the thread and not both. By doing this, it will give you a
cleaner thread and prevent the root from being torn out. 

Автор BrushCountryJamboree ( назад)
Russ contact MrPete here thru youtube i bet he can help you

Автор 65ply340 ( назад)
Sharpen your own tool bits out of 3/8 high speed with a 60 thread gage for
a pattern, put on center line. Use some kind of cooking oil for lubricant
(any seems to work) and you can cut cold roll, stainless, brass, aluminum
etc. Throw away that carbide not sharp enough, but will work with hardened
steel. You are right - leaded steel cuts the best.

Автор russtuff ( назад)
Nice find! My machine is under plastic right now as I'm finishing my new
shop space (drywall dust is no good) so I hadn't even gotten to check mine
yet :) I'm glad you were able to sort it out!

Автор bubster1981 ( назад)
My fault,my fault! sorry for the mistake, but this lathe is a decent thread
cutting lathe! I overlooked the gear chart n made a mistake in the gear set
up while doing imperial threads! assumed because it was Chinese it had to
be at fault!

Автор bubster1981 ( назад)
its interesting , because if you take 20 t.pi for instance ,the carriage
should move .050'' per spindle turn...if you have an error of .0025 per
turn, doesn't sound like much , but over 20 turns that's an error of .050''
which is a thread plus or minus! gives you an idea how precise thread
cutting really is

Автор bubster1981 ( назад)
Yea!, , but metric threads are spot on.??? I thought it having an imperial
lead screw 12 t.p.i it would be better suited for .s.a.e threads , guess
not. Yea , scratch out a 13 tpi thread and closely measure it ...or any for
that matter an see what you get...or measure the carriage travel per
spindle turn (accurate 1 turn and backlash removed frm carriage) and see
what you get. 13 tpi equals 13 spindle turns divide 1 inch carriage travel
.077''/ rev

Автор russtuff ( назад)
WHOA! I am going to have to try that and see what I get. I haven't any
problems like that, but I also have only cut a few threads.

Автор bubster1981 ( назад)
I even dug into the gear box , its all geared right

Автор bubster1981 ( назад)
yes you should...the 1st time I tried to cut 13 tpi it ended up cutting
13.5...actually alitttle more! . I did some simple math, when cutting 13
tpi the carraige should move ..077'' .per turn of the spindle ,.mine is
moving slow .071'' which is cutting almost an extra thread...why ,I don't
know , its setup right. I managed to get 13 tpi by changing the gearing
different frm what the charts say,i got the carriage moving .076'' per
spinle turn , close enough! ,,I just don't know why this is

Автор russtuff ( назад)
I've had no problem doing SAE threads with this lathe and using the timing
dial thing. My brain thinks in SAE so it seems much more intuitive, which
is probably why I never posted a video on it. Maybe I should....

Автор bubster1981 ( назад)
russ, have you had any luck cutting S.A.E threads ,or luck using thread
dial? with this lathe

Автор jchinderle ( назад)
no prob. thanks for posting the video 

Автор russtuff ( назад)
That is a great comment. Thank you very much for posting :)

Автор jchinderle ( назад)
hey there, i think one of your probs may be taking to big of a depth of
cut. when i learned how to turn threads in tech school we were taught to
start with a doc of .003-.005 but as you start getting into the material
you have to bring the doc down to .001... it takes longer but it wont chip
your insert or sharpened hss and you have to think, when your cutting
threads the chip load isnt just on the tip but also on the sides of the
tool so youre taking a depth and width of cut.

Автор russtuff ( назад)
Uh... why didn't I think of this? Great idea!

Автор russtuff ( назад)
I really do need to get working with HSS. That said, once I started turning
12L14 I had great luck, so I have been trying to work with it whenever I
can. Thanks for watching!

Автор Charlie Moore ( назад)
Hi russtuff, I would get the same results with mild steel too. I like to
use drill rod for any home made shafts it threads really good. As suggested
try using a HHS tool that you grind your self. also get your self a pitch
gauge. it has the double depth measurments for the threads. although not
for metric threads.

Автор themetalcutter ( назад)
Try grinding your own HSS tool, you can grind HSS to a much sharper edge
than carbide, the tool still doesn't look like it's cutting cleanly there
doesn't seem to be nice coils of swarf coming from the tip, you could also
try grinding a little bit more of a positive angle on the top of your tool.
Thanks for the video, I enjoyed watching it. Regards Tim

Автор SWLAMECH84 ( назад)
Good Videos !! Thank You for taking the time to document your progress !!

Автор russtuff ( назад)
Thank you very much :)

Автор jjs4x ( назад)
Thanks for taking the time and effort making this video and sharing the
info. I have not bought my lathe yet but this is the one I plan on buying.
I'm like you with very little experience. So you videos are perfect for me!
To all the haters and "know it all's" he clearly states he doesn't know
what he's doing! Cut him some slack, at least he's trying! Besides if you
can do it better get off your lazy a** and make a video! Keep the videos

Автор russtuff ( назад)
The feelers may have not been ideal, but they did get it done. Using a
decent steel really was the difference in breaking tools vs getting a good
result. Thanks for watching!

Автор tbone ( назад)
dude. you're using a feeler guage to clamp the tool in place. how is the
tool not going to move when under load? (btw, I have studied mechanical
engineering but that's got nothing to do with understanding this.) forgive

Автор russtuff ( назад)
I guess if this method ever stops working for me then I'll likely have to
find some other information. So far, this process has worked every time.

Автор Strothy2 ( назад)
dude get some prpoer books and lists for metric threads!

Автор Perius ( назад)
If I remember correctly, the main reason for setting cuts at an angle is to
reduce the stress on the tool. Less surface area in contact with the
material gives less chatter and less strain on the workpiece. Some
machining tips: Make a metal hook to pull out the shavings. Don't use your
hands! Nor pliers, they might "hook on" to the shavings spin around and hit
your face. Buy some proper cutting fluid. Use alcohol as cutting fluid on
aluminium. Use dishwashing soap and water on plastics. Have fun

Автор russtuff ( назад)
I'm not in socal, but if I were I would jump on your invitation. You are
very kind to offer, and if I get some time in the future I might take you
up on the Skype idea. As it is, i'm so swamped with projects and honey-do's
right now I don't get to play much. I have many more videos that I'm even
ready to post, just no time to work on them! Thanks again :)

Автор Andrea Evangelista ( назад)
I ran out of space again. If you are in the Los Angeles area I would invite
you to my shop and in a couple of hours I could have you threading like a
champ. Alternatively, we could Skype, thereby allowing you to see in real
time responses to questions you might have and see in practice what I could
show you. I would like to see you do a better video with good information
and nice results. Good luck either way, machining takes time and is hard to
learn on your own. I know the problems.

Автор Andrea Evangelista ( назад)
Dummy that I am, I wrote a response filled with information I was sure
would be useful to you that exceeded the 500 character limit in posting.
Not realizing that, I lost the entire response trying to respond to you.
The short of my response was I was not making a personal attack and stating
what I thought was the facts as I saw them. Then went on with a detailed
explanation regarding various aspects of threading you either don't know
are are ignoring. Email me so I can help 

Автор russtuff ( назад)
Agreed! The idiot who owns this channel is clearly untrained, unskilled,
and I have it on good authority that he's only owned this lathe for a few
months! :) But seriously, I appreciate any constructive feedback you might
have. I'm sure it's already clear to most that I don't know what I'm doing,
so stating it isn't as helpful as offering tips on how to get better
results. As a bonus to you, it lets people know you're creditable resource
(and not just a troll). Thanks for watching!

Автор Andrea Evangelista ( назад)
This person really knows VERY little about threading and running a lathe.
Don't use this for any kind of instruction. 

Автор russtuff ( назад)
@DallasFFL Congrats! Have you played with the dials on the front at all? It
sounds like it may be in between settings, which will disable the

Автор DallasFFL ( назад)
Just received my new G0602. I am a bit worried though. In the factory
installed gear settings my lead screw is not turning. Is this normal?
Thanks Morgan

Автор russtuff ( назад)
@patrickdarcy Right! I am a bit surprised I haven't been told "never do
that" yet. I'm sure I'll get it eventually :)

Автор russtuff (1045 лет назад)
it didn't make any sense to me either at the time, i was just doing what i
was told. basically, the leadscrew is an INCH pitch, so you can't turn
METRIC threads by disengaging the half-nut and reengaging at another point.
when turning INCH threads that is exactly how you would do it, but for
METRIC you must leave the half-nut always engaged. it's dumb.

Автор Hired Mind ( назад)
You said in this video that with metric threads, you have to keep the
half-nut lever engaged. I've never heard that before. Can you expand on
that a bit for newbies like me? 

Автор russtuff ( назад)
i know. i really need to buy a grinder so i can start making hss tool bits.
thanks for watching!

Use hss to cut mild steel not carbide and you will have better results.

Автор Brad Trelstad ( назад)
Hey thanks for the instruction. I just picked up a lathe like this and it
doesn't have a Thread Dial. I also have to try to figure out how to center
the tail piece. I'm looking forward to how you did that. I'll be taking
apart the tail pc. tomorrow to do the cleaning like you showed. Mine is all
gummed up as well. Thanks again, ChiefBDT@gmail.com

Автор David Kirtley ( назад)
I picked up a 1x30 belt sander from HF and it does a great job on the HSS
bits. Wish I had gotten one with disk as well. I also picked up a diamond
grinding wheel (#32397) that I just chuck up in the lathe and sharpen the
brazed carbide bits since they have not been that sharp when I get them.
People say HSS is sharper than carbide but after some quality time with
diamond stones on the carbide, I can't really see that much difference.
Probably just because HSS is easier to sharpen.

Автор russtuff ( назад)
that is a sweet setup!

Автор jigjig10jigjig ( назад)
Great vids bro, thanks a bunch from Australia!

Автор thus007 ( назад)
push the bushing out in a sturdy bench vice

Автор David Kirtley ( назад)
I made a swing up tool holder for threading a while back. Instead of
backing off, it swings up out of the way. Copy idea from Bogstandard on
madmodder. He has a video of his in action here under the user blogwitch.
HSS is sharper and better for light cuts. Carbide seems to want a bigger
depth of cut to be happy. Metric leadscrew makes metric threads a no
brainer though...

Автор russtuff ( назад)
@UCMWINGS I have no way to grind blanks and the pregound ones cost more
than what I think they are worth. Granted, had I started with them instead
of carbide I am sure I would feel differently :)

Автор JohnGrimsmo ( назад)
Wow I forgot all about those gears haha. I vaguely remember being able to
do it without a press, since I don't have one. RE 12L14, I found that it
turned weird, like cast iron with short showers of chips, not long stringy
blue chips like other steels, also the workpiece and the pile of chips
rusted within days, so I'm not a huge fan. Love turning 4140 though! Great
vid bud, doing it under power certainly helped. A little bit of thread
wobble is perfectly acceptable. 

Автор UCMWINGS ( назад)
Try using HSS cutting tool instead of carbide.

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