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TOMTOP Mistake of RFID Proximity Door Lock Access Control System



No security at this system! The coil of relais worked invers! After poer on the µ-controller need time for reset and during this time the coil of relais have no power and a door opener worked at this time. The relais should only worked if a correct code or RFID-card is entered. At the moment the relais goes off when correct card/code is entered - this is not correct!
Everybody can enter the room by pulling out the fuses and get them in again, after every power on the opener works - very bad quality and no security...

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Длительность: 1:03
Комментарии: 27

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Комментарии:

Автор ThePyrogenica . (5 месяцев)
Hi. I am tempted to ask what you could possibly expect from a $9.95 product
from Hong Kong. That is why reliable versions of these systems usually cost
20 times as much from reputable sources. However, I have several solutions
for you:

Presuming you have wired the uncommitted relay outputs correctly:

Solution 1 (the best one): Put in a small battery/charger in line with the
12V power supply. This will keep it operational during a power outage. The
bigger the battery, the longer the standby

Solution 2: (not so good) I note the "on" pulse is less than 1 second when
restoring mains power, against the 2-3 seconds that a normal "on" pulse
(triggered by pasword or presentation of the correct key) occurs. Thus, a 1
second delay in the output power line to the electronic lock would prevent
it from responding to a power reset with this short pulse. Simplest way is
to wire a 1M ohm resister in series with a 1uF electrolytic capacitor (30V
or more - observe polarities or use a polyster cap). One wire to the lock
should be attached to the centre (between the resistor and the capacitor)
and the other should be wired as normal. This will cut out the first second
of the pulse.

Best way to secure these is either to encapsulate them, wire the
anti-tamper switch to the burglar alarm or in series with input power (to
cut power off if case is opened) or regouse in a more secure case.

Автор asbaDoce (9 месяцев)
For me the worst part is that all the security is behind a cheap plastic
cover that anyone can open without tools. You open it and you find all the
components visible and the input and output connections conveniently
labeled so you only need to short the contacts. It would make me happier if
the panel was a separate unit that I could place away from the logic, but
at least it requires more to open than a bump key.

Автор Borodrak a (1 год)
I have a damaged lock type AD2000-M, at which the 50 programmed keys. Is it
possible these keys used on the locks of the same type, without
programming? Is there a possibility that in the damaged locks Transfer data
to a new lock?

Автор Ron Wilson (1 год)
Problem? Door access possible for 3 seconds or so after power
is broken and then restored? Hardly a concernable porblem, bub.

Автор RamjetX (1 год)
WOW! Thanks for sharing! Good to know as I'm starting to implement more
security to my home using this device.

Автор Rey Juan (1 год)
you need to back up with 12v battery

Автор Joven Jumantoc (1 год)
you might wired it mistakenly... where did you put your led?? it should be
put in NO or NC donnector not 12 volts directly as you said in you video

Автор newuploade (1 год)
Deutsch:
Bitte beschreibe möglichst genau , wo du die LED angeschlossen hast .
Die aufgedruckte abkürzung reicht.

Автор Valentin Albertshofer (1 год)
wie hast du den türöffner verbunden????
Abkürzung reicht!

Автор Stroboking9 (1 год)
...ist auch keine Sicherheit: - zum einen muss die Zeitkonstante so gewählt
werden das der Türöffner noch ausreichend Zeit zum öffnen hat und - wenn
man die Spannungsversorgung mehrmals ein- und ausschaltet oder man eine
Stromschwankung hat öffnet sich ebenfalls die Tür... ...hier hat der
Hersteller schlichtweg gepfuscht!

Автор awwurdead2 (1 год)
thank you for this info, I can see that there is a spot to connect a jumper
right behind the relay that is labeled NO and NC

Автор dp33600 (1 год)
The way I fixed this was to connect pins 2 & 3 on J2 (NOT the NC/NO which
is J1. That is for the lock. It's a feature that can be turned off, not a
mistake!

Автор CrimelabS (2 года)
the one I got has a back up rechargeable 12v battery that came with it. no
problems with power loss unless you drained the battery dead.

Автор alfie ga (2 года)
That's what I use and if the power is out for over 6 hours it switches to 5
12v batteries.

Автор Pedro Costa (2 года)
and you can do that having a 12V 2Ah battery??

Автор dlwsohle (1 год)
Die Lösung ist einfach und billig.Einfach ein Zusätzliches Relais leicht
anzugsverzögert schalten lassen. 1 Subminiaturrelais 1 Elko 1
Ladewiderstand Nun funzt das ausgezeichnet

Автор Alicia Todd (2 года)
$3.58 to be precise ;)

Автор Chris Fredericks (2 года)
for a fail safe system it doesn't matter any way and as mrevilmax said ups
for fail secure. What do you expect for $10 any way

Автор Evil Max (3 года)
The answer is "Uninterruptible power supply"....;-)

Автор Miguel Silva (2 года)
I was trying to find one of those cheap RFID access control that don't have
that bug, but it's hard to guess by the specs. I see lots of "AD2000-M"
systems (at least in photo) selling on ebay but not all have same specs,
some say 250 users, some 500 users, some 800, and some 1000, there is also
V2000-A and V2000-C but how can I be sure that bug is fixed in other
systems? does any one have positive feedback of other similar models?

Автор Pedro Costa (2 года)
this is a great product review but now tell me... how can u fix this...

Автор bigclivedotcom (2 года)
If it was a magnetic door retainer then it would be open as soon as you
killed the power anyway. Any sensible system would have battery backup.
Besides, if you really wanted in then you could just pop the cover off that
unit and bridge wires. Sure the tamper alarm would trip, but who cares.
Alternatively an RF device or piezo spark generator would probably crash
the processor and cause it to reboot, opening the door while it did so.

Автор lazyfrogonalog (1 год)
I think it is set to "Fail safe" mode also known as NC. It is supposed to
do this in case of fire or whatever. For some uses this isnt required
because you can still open the door manually from the inside independently
of the lock. If this is the case for you, I think you can change the
setting on the panel to "Fail secure" mode or NO. Amongst the electrical
components on the back of the panel there is a small switch which you just
change over to NO I think it is about the top right corner.

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